NOTES TO MYSELF

Reasonable Mechanics/Marine Services on Oahu:

AWAB HOSE CLAMPS 7MM socket
Designed to protect hoses from hose clamp damage
316 Stainless Steel
Even circular tightening
Rolled band edges protect hose from wear and damage from clamp

Perkins 4-108 Low Line

  • SHERWOOD G65 RAW WATER PUMP (replaced March 2009)

    RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLER BLADE DEFLECTION
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    Note that the pump is installed "upside down" and the INTAKE is on the STARBOARD SIDE of the pump. Rotation is as noted (clockwise if upsidedown, counterclockwise if right side up... :<).

    March 2009: The pump pictured was installed in 2001. I had to drill the screws out of the cover to open the pump (cobalt drill bit $12), but the impeller was just fine. (Yes, I tried the "propane torch" method to loosen the screws, but to no avail.) Compared to its replacement unit, however, this pump is very hard to rotate so I think the bearings must be worn.

    CLOSE THE ENGINE WATER COOLING SEACOCK

    IMPELLER REMOVAL: lever between the blades from the sides using the Quick Impeller Remover (red plastic thing) provided with the SpeedSeal kit.

    REPLACING THE IMPELLER: use a plastic wire tie to compress the blades with blades deflected correctly. Grease impeller and push into the pump cavity making sure to line up the spline with the "key" on the shaft.

    REPLACEMENT OF THE "O" RING: lightly grease the groove in the SpeedSeal cover and install a new "o" ring.

I purchased a new (used) coolant reservoir in 2009, so if (more likely when) the original one finally breaks there is a replacement available for it.

  • FUEL SYSTEM

    BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM (written in clear English): Engage the electric fuel pump. Using a 5/8" wrench, loosen the bolt on the top of the fuel/water separation filter. Operate the lift pump until fuel, free of bubbles, eminates from there. Tighten that bolt. Then, using a 3/8" wrench, loosen the SIDE BLEED VALVE on the fuel injection pump (only the side one--even though the book says to bleed the top one LEAVE THAT ALONE!); use a 1/2" wrench to loosen the SUPPLY LINE (rear) to the injection pump. Operate the lift pump until fuel, free of bubbles, eminates from both of those. Tighten both. Ensure the STOP CABLE is in the RUN POSITION. Position throttle at FULL. Loosen #1 and #3 injector lines (5/8") at the injectors and crank the engine (about 10 seconds--then wait 1 minute) and repeat until fuel flows from those lines. Tighten the injection lines to the injectors, move throttle to just above idle, and start the engine.

    Note about lift pump: the supply line to the lift pump has a check valve in it. So if you take that off, make damned sure you get it back on the same way it came off or you will NOT GET FUEL OUT OF THE LIFT PUMP (ask me how I know).

    JANUARY-JUNE 2008: Had the injection pump rebuilt by a local shop at a cost of $1300. Took six weeks (apparently they had to order a part from England and it was delivered by row boat). When installed, no fuel came out of the pump. After THREE MONTHS of f@#ing around with it, an email from Dave Lively in Louisana suggested that perhaps the shop REVERSED THE STOP AND RUN POSITION of the fuel shutoff--he was right. Lesson Learned: just because somebody at a repair shop says it's OK doesn't mean it's OK--trust yourself above all others: you know your boat and they don't.

    Just for S's and G's, we replaced the lift pump and rest of the fuel delivery system as well.

    NOVEMBER 2007: As a result of the (2007) top-end rebuild and the refresh of the engine cooling system (cost $1564.00), engine operating temperature has dropped from 190°F to 180°F under load at about 1800rpm.

  • PSS Shaft Seal

    When a boat with a watertight (P.S.S.) seal goes back in the water, there will be an air pocket trapped in the shaft log (stern tube). This air pocket must be vented so water can reach the face of the seal to help cool and lubricate it. To vent the air pocket, simply compress the bellow (push the carbon away from the stainless steel rotor with your hand) so that water fills the shaft log (stern tube). A small amount of water will enter the boat at this time and will stop as soon as you release the bellow, allowing the two faces to come back in contact. In the graphic below, one would move the bellow from the #5 in the direction of the #2.

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    Water will seep into the boat. When you see the water, the air pocket is vented.

    January 2008: after sitting for about 4 weeks, the graphite flange somehow became attached to the stainless steel rotor, the result being near disastrous. When the engine was started and reverse was engaged, the bellow twisted itself out of the clamps and ended up folded in half. Water was then entering through the stern tube as there was no seal. Further investigation revealed that the boat yard that installed the seal had replaced a nylon fitting with one made of stainless steel (the manufacturer specifically warns against such replacement), and a resulting corrosion caused the two surfaces to bond. Faced with the probability that the boat would have to be towed to a boatyard to be hauled, I reluctantly sprayed Corrosion-X on the rotor and flange. Three days later, the corrosion bond broke and the bellow retracts again. Unfortunately, the Corrosion-X will decay the rubber parts of the seal, so the seal will have to be replaced. For reference: shaft size is 1”, stern tube is 2x2”.

Starter voltage protection solenoid

Type: Sierra UNI0401 Replacement part for Mercury/Mariner Outboard and Mercruiser Inboard/Outboard

Possible scenarios for the engine failing to start:

  1. Starter voltage protection solenoid failure or wires disconnected /corroded connections
  2. Bad (remote) starting switch or wiring thereto
  3. Flat starting battery
  4. Starter (or starter solenoid) failure
  5. Insufficient fuel supply

This section deals with the starter voltage protection solenoid.

This solenoid is mounted on the aft port side of the engine, covered by a plastic "hat". It maintains a constant 12 volts to the starting solenoid for protection. I do not understand how it works, or how the wires relate to the starter, but this is the way it is wired.

Wiring Diagram:

Starter voltage Protection Solenoid

Galley Notes

  • Hillerange 2174 General Maintenance Instructions

    {short description of image}To remove the range top, first remove the machine screws that hold the DRIP PANS. Then, find the small levers at each front edge of the range top (where the red line in the picture above ends) and push them towards each other. The range top will come loose from the front and then it can be removed from the hinge fittings at the back.

    To replace the Piezo Electric switch: Remove the range top. CAREFULLY remove the two wires from the switch (note: each wire has a different fitting so it is unimportant to remember where they go—they will only fit one way on the new switch). Remove the retaining nut from the back of the existing switch. From the range front, unscrew the existing switch and replace with new switch. Affix the retaining nut. Attach the two wires. Replace the range top.