INTERACTIVE TABLE OF CONTENTS


USCG REGISTRATION 1045772

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Specifications

LOA: 42' 7"’
LOD: 45.6’
LWL: 38’
Beam: 11’ 10”
Disp: 23,000
Ballast: 8,000
Draft: 5’
Keel: “cutaway”
Rudder: skeg
Fuel: 65 gal.
Water: 115g in fiberglass tank, 30g in portable tank
Holding: 5 gal aft head
Aux: Perkins 4-108 low line
Main: 225 sq ft
Mizzen: 123 sq ft
100% jib: 383 sq ft

Hull Design

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Sail Inventory

  • Doyle full batten main sail (2002)
  • Doyle full batten mizzen sail (2002)
  • Quantum head sail 100% (2005)
  • Brand-X 90% (?) head sail (2002)
  • Air Force asymmetrical spinnaker w/ATN Spinnaker Sock (2002)
  • ATN Storm Jib (2002)

Sail Control

  • Schaefer Furling Boom serial number 14 (2002)
  • Schaefer 3100 head sail furler (2001)
  • Schaefer main sail traveller (2002)
  • Doyle “Stack Pack” dutchman on mizzen sail
  • Dutchman BoomBrake
  • Schaefer and Harken blocks throughout
  • 2-Lewmar 44 2-speed self-tailing primary winches (2006)
  • 1 Lewmar 30 2-speed self-tailing winch for mizzen halyard (2002)
  • 1 Lewmar 25 2-speed winch for headsail halyard
  • 1 Harken 40 self-tailing winch for mail halyard (cockpit) (2002)
  • 1 Harken 16 self-tailing winch for main sheet (2002)
  • Schaefer 1 1/8” genoa track and cars (rebedded 2005)
  • Tides Marine external sail track (Mizzen-2004)

Thru Hull Locations (below the waterline only)

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12 Volt Systems

There are three primary 12 volt systems on GreatWhite,

  1. House
  2. Starting
  3. Windlass

all charged by a Xantrex Freedom Marine 1000 Charger/Inverter while on shore power, or by an engine driven (DELCO-type) 60 amp alternator with an external (switchable) Balmar MaxCharge voltage regulator incorporating a Balmar Digital DuoCharge Isolator, (windlass battery charged by a WestMarine Battery Combiner attached to the STARTING BATTERY) and managed by a Xantrex Link 2000 battery management system. A Guest model 2450 Galvanic Isolator protects the boat from galvanic corrosion and metal loss.

There are separate switches for HOUSE and STARTING batteries located on the aft cabin bulkhead inside the engine room. When the STARTING BATTERY switch is energized, a green LED is illuminated within the electrical panel. There is no "COMBINATION" capability between the HOUSE and STARTING banks except for direct connection using JUMPER CABLES.

The HOUSE battery bank is protected by a 250amp fuse located immediately below the switch.

The STARTING battery bank is protected by a 175amp fuse located immediately below the switch..


Voltage Regulator and DuoCharge Specific Information

The Balmar MaxCharge voltage regulator automatically monitors battery conditions and uses up to a dozen individual time and voltage values to optimize battery charging. Enhanced by a 3-digit numeric display, the digital MC-612 makes it easier than ever to monitor a wealth of operational, programming and self-diagnostic info. Selectable programs for six battery types, as well as user programmability make the Max Charge as simple or as precise as you choose. The Max Charge also provides manual equalization, amp manager, automatic conditioning and exercise programs to maintain battery health. The Max Charge monitors and compensates for alternator and battery temperatures when equipped with optional temperature sensors. Dual battery temperature sensor inputs allow monitoring of two batteries.

The BalMar MaxCharge voltage regulator is active ONLY when both the IGNITION SWITCH and the REGULATOR DISCONNECT SWITCH are in the ON position. The Regulator Disconnect Switch is mounted on the NavPod so the regulator (and therefore the alternator) can be controlled from the helm. There are three wires to the disconnect switch:

  • Line: this red wire is sourced from the IGNITION SWITCH (NOTE TO SELF: this wire should be fused)
  • Load: this red wire is spliced to a green wire (sorry, it's the only color wire I had at the time) inside the electrical box
  • Ground: DO NOT GROUND THIS SWITCH. NEVER GROUND ANY SWITCH THAT CONTROLS THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR

The LINE and LOAD wires are clearly labeled inside the electrical box. The switch I chose is an automotive grade switch and the wiring instructions are taped inside the NavPod.

NOTE: Currently the ENGINE TACHOMETER functions ONLY when the REGULATOR is switched "ON" (there is a 45 second delay between "ON" and really 'on' to allow for oil pressure to build).

The BATTERY SENSE WIRE (Christmas tree colors -- green, red, white) has an inline 1 amp fuse and is connected directly to the Gel house battery.

The Balmar Digital Duo Charge is designed specifically to control charging voltage output -- making it possible to safely mix house and starting battery technologies. The Duo Charge features four different programs based on four battery technologies: Standard Flooded, Deep Cycle Flooded, Gel and AGM battery types. In addition, the Duo Charge can be programmed for 12-volt or 24-volt operation. The (installed) Battery Temperature Sensor cable (MC-TS-B) provides the ability to respond to a catastrophic over-charging runaway condition by automatically discontinuing charging output.

As of this writing (Feb 2010), there exists a minor magnetic field at the rear bushing of the alternator even when no charging source is present. When the DuoCharge is removed from the charging circuit, this magnetic field disappears. Hopefully, BalMar will be able to shoot this problem and we'll get a resolution.

A note about Balmar MaxCharge and DuoCharge: these great products are a real pain in the ass to set up, as they require the use of a magnetic switch. I've never mastered this, but their Tech Support is unequaled.


12 volt circuit breakers are located in middle section of the main power panel with the following exceptions:

  • Electric Toilet (forward head) - circuit breaker is located below the house battery on the exterior of the galley drawer cabinet (port side)
  • Windlass - located starboard forward cabin bulkhead
  • Instrumentation - located in the engine room on the external housing of the main power panel - fuses also apply here and are clearly labeled
  • The REFRIGERATOR is FUSED per manufacturer's spec on the exterior of the galley drawer cabinet (port side)

The PRIMARY BILGE PUMP is also FUSE PROTECTED within its switch housing. The switched bilge pump is fuse protected at a distribution bus on the aft cabin bulkhead inside the engine room.

A fused terminal block located on the aft bulkhead just above the starting battery box supplies 12VDC power to the REFRIGERATOR LIGHT, the small bilge pump, the 12VCD TV power, and something else but I don't know what the last one is.

The Link 2000 instrumentation and control panel is designed for use with the Xantrex Freedom series inverter/charger and a dual battery bank. It displays critical DC electrical information for 12VDC systems and allows for advanced setup of critical inverter and charger functions. An easy to read LCD display provides a digital readout of system data. HINT: READ THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR THE LINK 2000 to truly appreciate its' capabilites or just to get frustrated trying to understand Peukert's law.

The Xantrex Freedom 1000 Charger/Inverter delivers up to 75amps@12vDC charging power, and can provide up to 1800 watts @110vAC when in inversion mode. ONLY THREE OUTLETS ARE POWERED DURING INVERSION, and TWO of these are identified with BLACK OUTLET COVERS (galley and passageway) with the THIRD outlet in the Electronics Closet. The charger is controlled by a dedicated 25amp (110vAC) circuit breaker (red switch) in the main power panel. TO ACTIVATE INVERTER: press the INVERT button on the LINK 2000. Make sure the INVERTER is not enabled when service personnel are working on the electrical system as they might be inverted into the next world.

House

The house is powered by one 183Ah 4D SeaGel maintenance free battery and is monitored as "Battery 2" from the Link 2000.

Starting

The starting battery is a Group 27 (automotive-type) standard flooded maintenance free battery rated at 700 CCA. It was purchased and installed on 2/8/2010 and is monitored as "Battery 1" from the Link 2000. Charged via the BalMar Digital DuoCharge, it incorporates a BalMar MC-TS-B battery temperature sensor attached to the NEGATIVE POST to discourage catastrophic "run away" uncontrolled charging. (Battery Bill's, Battery Bill's)


Refrigeration

The refrigeration system is a 12VDC FrigoBoat Holding Plate system driven by a Danfoss BD50 compressor. The compressor is mounted on the upper shelf in the engine room, and is cooled by sea water pumped through a ShurFlo diaphram pump. The water pump is mounted on the engine room forward bulkhead directly below the fresh water pump. Sea water is sourced from the raw water strainer via a "tee" fitting and shares the same seacock as the engine cooling system (so DON'T CLOSE THE ENGINE COOLING SEACOCK AND TRY TO RUN THE REFRIGERATOR!!).

An hour meter attached to the pump is mounted on the inside of the galley cupboard and keeps track of just how long this amazing refrigeration system has run (as of 2/2010, a remarkable 1,978.1 hours).

The refrigeration system has an optional TempTech controller and display panel. This controller automatically senses whether there is an external power source (charger or alternator) and adjusts compressor speed accordingly. The TempTech has two settings:

  • Automatic: this is the default setting and should be used when running on battery power alone
  • Manual: use this when connected to shore power. To engage, depress the RED BUTTON until the "MANUAL" LED lights.

Box temperature can be made COLDER by turning the adjustment knob to PORT.

There are two switches on the panel, one of which turns the compressor on or off, and one which controls the interior light of the refrigerator box. The compressor is fused per manufacturer's spec on the exterior of the galley drawer cabinet (port side); the light is fused at a terminal block located on the aft bulkhead just above the starting battery box.

The refrigerator box itself contains four vacuum-panels from rparts.com covered with 1/8" plastic sheets 'glassed into place which provide insulation rated at R50. DO NOT EVER PUNCTURE THESE PANELS--doing so will destroy the insulation value. The rear panel has a "notch" on the upper port side so that refrigeration lines can be routed into the box. The hatch is also from rparts.com.

There is a pair of wires inside the box coming from the engine room which could be used to incorporate a fan, if that was ever necessary. We've not found that to be the case, so those wire just sit there gathering moss...

This system is so perfect if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


Air Conditioner

A Mermaid 12000 BTU air conditioner with reverse cycle heat, purchased June 2006 at a cost of 3478.25 is installed and provides cooling primarily to the aft cabin, although there are also two outlets in the main salon. The main salon outlets are located above and below the "electronics closet". The upper outlet is actually a dorade vent that has been converted to use as an air conditioner outlet. The aft cabin outlet is a fabricated "plenum box" below the hanging closet.

The air conditioner is wired to the starboard outlet circuit breaker, through a 30-amp wall switch located inside the electronics closet.

Sea water is used to cool the condensing unit. There is a strainer located in the bilge on the port side of the mast; this strainer needs to be checked from time to time and the screen should be replaced on a regular (annual) schedule. The thruhull that supplies the water is located just aft of the strainer. The (110VAC) water pump is located beneath the starboard settee. On occassion (especially after a wild ride or indeed after haulout), the pump needs to be "primed". To do this, loosen the (somewhat cumbersome) hose connection on the top of the pump and allow sea water to escape.

The system is fitted with a Condensation Removal Device. Working on the "Venturi" principle, the Mermaid Condensator is installed in-line with the marine air conditioners' water discharge line. As the marine air conditioner and sea water pump are running, the device creates a vacuum effect and literally pulls the condensation water out of the drain pan and merges it with the discharge water. The condensator needs to be cleaned from time to time. It is located on the shelf underneath the air conditioner; there is an inline check valve within the plumbing line for the condensator.


Fresh Water System

Fresh water is sourced from either a municipal connection through an inlet on the port side of the house, or from the primary 115 gallon water tank, or in the case of the galley FOOT PUMP (the AFT pump--the forward pump is SEA WATER) from the 30 gallon bladder located within the starboard settee.

House water pressure can safely reach 400 PSI (cold) due to the incorporation of CPVC pipe used prior to attachment to the 3/8" copper tubing that supplies all other faucets. The 3/8" copper connections are "flared" fittings, commonly used with natural gas and provide a high degree of safety.

Two opposing check valves fitted within the fresh water circuit provide seamless switching between a municipal water source and the on-demand house water pump (see diagram below). The check valves (SharkBite product U2008) have a cracking pressure of ½ PSI. To use the on-demand HOUSE water, eliminate municipal water supply pressure (disconnect the hose or shut off the faucet) and energize the on-demand pump using the 12vDC circuit breaker labeled FRESH WATER PUMP.

There are no manual valves incorporated in the fresh water supply circuit. The higher pressure source automatically closes the opposing check valve, so if the on-demand pump is on and a higher pressure feed comes from the municipal source, water will be sourced from the municipal side. Conversely, if there's no municipal water pressure and the on-demand pump is on, water will be sourced from the house tank.

Major "junctions" of the 3/8" copper tubing are found below the main cabin sole, just aft of the mast.

The aft toilet flushes with water sourced from the primary (115 gallon) tank. This is because the use of salt water in that toilet causes significant odor when marine organisams decompose. There is an unconnected hose in the aft head cabinet that could be used to source salt water in the event of an ocean crossing.

All water except aft head toilet and manual sink pump and galley foot pump is filtered through the "whole house" water filter prior to delivery to any faucet or the water heater. The aft head manual sink pump has a two way valve installed inline, and there is a check valve on the aft head toilet supply line.

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Reverse Osmosis Filter

The Reverse Osmosis water filtration system is located within the galley sink cupboard. A valve in the sink plumbing can shut off water supply to the reverse osmosis filtration system.

Water Heater

An IsoTemp Slim 15 4 gallon (110v) water heater w/HX (2010) provides sufficient hot water (if used sparingly). When the water heater is turned on via the 110VAC circit breaker, a red NEON pilot light within the electrical panel is illuminated.

The water heater is attached to the shelf in three places--two aft (both sides) and one forward on the port side. Supply (cold) to the water heater is provided through a stainless steel reinforced "washing machine" hose capable of withstanding 90+PSI. The hot water out is a rigid flared copper line.


Heads

There are two heads (marine toilets) both installed AFTER 1992 (important to know when ordering the rebuild kits). The forward head is a Raritan PHE-II, the "E" signifying that it is an Electric flush toilet. The aft head is a PH-II (identical to the PHE-II except that it is a MANUAL flush toilet) and is plumbed for fresh water although this can be modified to use sea water in the event of an ocean crossing.

Both heads are plumbed for either DIRECT DISHCHARGE or through USCG approved mechanisms for handling waste. The use of WHALE diverter valves as opposed to cheaper Jabsco valves ensures that there is no leakage when changing the discharge route. Discharge routes are clearly marked on the valves.

The forward head is connected to a Raritan ElectroScan Type 1 Marine Sanitation Device which is activated automatically when the FLUSH button (on the vanity wall) is pressed.

Rebuilding the heads

From time to time, the pump mechanisms on the heads need to be rebuilt. This is a painful excercise, exacerbated by the exhorbitant cost of the rebuild kit (about $75 at West, but available for $45 from boatfix if you can wait). You can tell when the forward head needs to be rebuilt by counting the number of flushes within the 20 second flush time--any less than 23 flushes in 20 seconds and the pump needs to be rebuilt.


Galley (including propane)

come back again---later